Paulk Miter Stand Pdf

When I built I was in a shop about half the size of the shop I am in today. I made it to fit that space and with materials I had on hand. Since moving to a larger shop I’ve often wanted a larger work surface but put it off until I had most of my other tools organized.

1. Paulk Total Station Pdf

Finally I got around to making a new work bench.My original intention was to design something of my own but I’ve been drawn to for quite some time now. The idea behind his design is to make a lightweight, break down workbench that contractors can take with them from jobsite to jobsite to work efficiently. I really like the work surface of Ron’s design but I don’t need mine to be portable in the sense that it will leave my shop.

I do need it to roll around though. So I bought his plans and decided to make a semi-mobile version of the Paulk Workbench to use as my workbench, assembly table, and outfeed table. Preparing The LumberThe base I came up with is just a simple construction grade lumber workbench frame. Nothing fancy. 2×4’s for the frames.Having a dedicated stop block system in a miter saw station makes cutting repeatable sizes much quicker and more accurate.

I say it every time I mention it but is something I should have made when I first set up my shop. It’s an absolute pleasure to use.For the legs I used 2×6’s. Most construction grade lumber workbenches use 2×4’s in an L configuration for the legs but I knew I was going to store my CNC machine below so making the front opening as large as possible was ideal.Assembling The BaseThe base would consist of an upper and lower frame. These frames are just butt joined together with 2-1/2” wood screws.

I didn’t use glue on any of the dimensional lumber. The main thing to make sure of here is that the frames are square and that there aren’t any major bows that will affect the top boxes later.The legs are screwed directly to the corners of the frames.

To help prevent any racking from lateral movement I rotated the front legs 90 degrees from the back legs. This will also result in less obstruction to the lower shelf area when accessed from the front. The leg I am securing in this picture is on the side I will be calling the front.Clamps are better at holding stuff than I am so to make installing the second frame easier I clamped a scrap piece of wood to each of the legs to hold the second frame in place. I screwed together a couple pieces of scrap 2×4 to act as a jig to give me the exact spacing from the end of the leg for the clamped piece.Then the second frame could be added to the assembly and easily secured with five screws through each leg.

The clamped blocks from the last step made this process super easy. Taking 5-10 minutes to rig up a simple jig is faster than the 15-20 minutes you would spend fighting to complete the task without it.Making It MobileFor the casters I used 3” locking swivel casters. These are each rated at 300lbs. Before installing them I drenched the bearings in a Teflon dust resistant lubricant. The completed workbench moves around very easily.Cutting The Sheet GoodsRon’s plans call for 1/2” pine plywood for the top boxes and pocket holes for the assembly.

I hate using pocket holes in 1/2” materials so I went with 3/4”. It’s formaldehyde free and made in the USA which are both things I really like. And also I wasn’t sure if I was going to add a T-track some time in the future so using hardwood ply will be beneficial in the event that I need to route a groove for the track. First the top and bottom panels were cut.Then all of the interior dividers were cut to the final width.Followed by cutting them to length. This was a good test of the cutting capacity of my miter saw station and the stop block setup.

I was able to stack five pieces of 3/4” plywood and still use the stop block to make an accurate cut.Reduce Weight And Gain StorageTo gain access to the inside of the torsion box area a lot of large slots are cut into the vertical pieces. I used another quick jig and a can of wax to make a perfect shape to cut out.To cut the template I used a drill to make a pilot hole for my jigsaw. I honestly wasn’t as accurate as I wanted to be with this template. It ended up being a little sloppy in a couple ares so some finessing was needed with a file.I wasn’t setup to properly make all of these slots with a router. The preferred method would be to use a guide bushing on your router base and a spiral upcut bit to take multiple passes and make nice clean cuts. All I had was a straight cutting pattern bit with a bearing so I had to hog out the entire cut with one pass. My router was screaming and I’m sure it was a lot of abuse but in the end the cuts were made.

I’ll be more prepared next time.I used a round over bit in my laminate router to soften up all of the edges of the slots.Assemble The TopThe top was broken up into two 2′ x 8′ boxes. Each box has two long side pieces secured with pocket hole screws, and five perpendicular pieces secured with pocket hole screws. What you see in the following picture is pretty much all that was secured with pocket hole screws. I predrilled and added regular 1-1/4” screws to the rest of the assembly.When working on a project with a lot of pocket holes I find it much faster to install all of the screws first before driving any in place. Yes, pocket hole screws are not “metal tenons” but I threw that in the video as a joke.As I said, the bottoms and interior sides were secured with 1-1/4” screws. I laid out reference lines as to where the plywood dividers were below so this process went by pretty quick.A few people on my Facebook page suggested to try out a split top orientation so I secured the tops with 1-1/2” or so of space between them. I also didn’t drill any holes in the top as I’m not sure if I want the holes or a track setup.Final DetailsTo make the bottom area more usable a plywood shelf is needed.

I used 1/2″ plywood for the lower shelf. Testing out the table as an outfeed table worked as expected.The lower plywood panel was slid into place and secured with just a couple 1-1/4” screws. This area is just storage so going crazy with screws isn’t necessary.To finish it off I added an electrical strip to the front of the base. The cord was ran below the top boxes and out the split top area on the side opposite the camera. I also put my CNC machine down below and secured my battery charger to one of the right legs.I hope you were able to get some ideas out of this build and if you are interested in something similar I suggest you check out Ron Paulk’s workbench. It’s a great design that has been successful for a lot of people who have used it. Thanks for stopping by folks and have a great day!

Thanks for sharing this video Jay. I will be building an assembly/outfeed table in the coming week, and this is an inspiration. Those slots you cut out would be very helpful when gluing stuff down and clamping them.

I shared a picture a while back of my clamp storage unit, and I couldn’t live without it. It is nothing more than a miniature shelf unit on a french cleat that allows the long clamps to be secured on a bottom rail, smaller ones on a middle rail, and a small shelf on top for storing glue, etc. Keep up the great work. And please, do share the info about that new saw:) Dave. Hey Jay,Just watched all 13 of Ron’s 6 min vids on his 2.0 version of this table, and was impressed with the router table insert etc.and then your 6 min complete version.

Love the in shop bench version more than the portaversion. I have truly enjoyed all of your videos and the working mans approach you take to your builds I have a tonne of expensive tools.

Nothing like Ron’s Feshop.but still good grouping for the guy next door, and you make you believe I can actually do some of the stuff I want with them be a better ” Indian” I suppose.Thanks for that!!Phil.

Paulk Total Station Pdf

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I did make 2 different versions. A 3' x 6' version and a 4' x 7' version, the latter with an MDO Plywood work surface. I built the smaller one first with my best interpretation of the pictures I had seen of it, and built the second one using the plans. I will probably add the table saw support system to the larger one down the road. The scaled down versions work better for me. Many thanks to Ron for all the design time and his willingness to share these.

Can't wait to get going on my UMS. My helper dog did take quite a liking to the shaded 'dog bed' underneath.so much for tool storage.Nate. Nate,Nice interpretation of Ron's UWB. I've been thinking of something like the UWB and like what I see here. Lots of working space, easy setup and breakdown, and reasonable weight. I just ordered the plans and have a few questions:- Why do you like the smaller one better?- Why MDO Plywood?- What's the weight of the smaller?- It might be perspective, but it looks like the side openings on yours are a bit smaller than Ron's plans. If true, why did you go with that?- If you were to do yours over, what would you change?- Regarding the holes in the top.

Did you go with 3/4' holes (I think that's what Ron specified) or 20mm holes like in an MFT? What did you use to cut the holes?

Do you feel the holes are accurate enough to use bench dogs (like Qwas Dogs) as to align a work piece and guide rail?Thanks,Dan.p.s., I'll have to keep my Poodles away from my UWB. They'll start pushing and shoving for the best resting spot and scatter tools everywhere! Dan,I scaled down both benches I made mostly for transport reasons. Getting an 8' bench into my basement wasn't going to be fun with the stairs I have either. I also like the fact that when I am ripping down 8' sheet goods, I have room at the ends of the 7' table for the guide rail clamps to hang down if I need to use them.Re.

I chose that because of availability and because I wanted as smooth a top as possible. It is obviously more costly, but worth it to me.I don't know the weight of either unit, but the smaller one is very light. My wife carried this unit out of our basement and set it up on her own as an extra table for a party we had and commented on how light it was.

I also made the stands for the smaller unit out of 1/2' ply rather than the spec'd 3/4' ply. For the smaller table I think it is adequate, but for the larger table, I would go with the spec'd 3/4' for the stands and bottom shelf.

Setting it up is quite easy if you simply put your arms through the box beam and hold it out in front of you horizontally. I haven't tipped over yet:-)The side openings on my tables are smaller.

4' I think, rather than the 5' specified. I assumed the 4' on the first I made and wanted the second table to match. I haven't found it limiting what or how I put things inside the table, but I do think 5' is a better dimension. That is one thing I would change on version 3.0 for me. Also, I used a compass to layout all my round cutouts and then cut a template with the jigsaw. I don't have a 5' hole saw.

I think I would spend the money and get a 5' bit if I were to do it over.I did use 3/4' holes in the top, drilled with a forstner bit. The holes were located from measurements taken on each side, and then I just put a + where each x and y axis intersected. I didn't want to simply use long lines or chalk lines and their associated intersections because of the marks left on the top.

This is quite accurate, but a plunge router on a guide rail would be more accurate, and with an accurate layout, could be used for guide rail placement with dogs. I wanted the holes for clamping only. The 3/4' holes are quite tight for the Festool Clamping Elements, so I would recommend using a 20mm bit when you drill/route the holes. Just gives you more clamping options. I think that is it as far as lessons learned/do overs. 1/16' roundover bit is perfect for easing all edges!The leaf blower in the picture was for cleaning the dog off before he was allowed back in the house. You'd think the noise of a router would deter him from 'helping' but he insists on being right there!

Good luck with the bench!Nate. Nate,Many thanks for the great, detailed feedback. I liked the UWB the first time I saw it, but wondered if there were some gotchas. Your feedback makes me more comfortable about moving ahead and making the right construction choices. For example, I don't have a 5' hole saw and was going to use a compass and jigsaw like you did. Now, I'm going get a hole saw for the slots and a 20mm bit for the top.Thanks again,Dan.p.s. I'll be using the leaf blower on my Poodles too!

(They are nosy little buggers.). I am considering making my next UWB 4x7.

The loss of 1' would not interfere with the big job of breaking down plywood. Plywood and assembly were the two main considerations when I designed the UWB. I knew from years of using a 2'6'x6'8' door blank as my bench, it was too small. Mantles, wainscoting and other large project really benefit from the larger surface. I only plan on caring and using one size so bigger is better. If I carried more than one bench, I would consider making it narrower and shorter.

I am working on a portable bench design for my 13' Dewalt planer much like the Miter Stand. I am thinking about making it dual purpose so it can be flipped over when the planer is not mounted. The upside-down planer stand could function as a narrower and shorter work bench.Ron. JGA,I am convinced that 4x8 is the perfect size for shop and portability. I worked with 3'0x6'8' door blanks as work surfaces for many, many years and found them just too smalls to support the projects I did.

It is this issue that drove me to designing a multipart top. I wanted a 4x8 bench, but knew I could not haul it around. If they are not mobile, then maybe you could put each 2x8 side on it's own roll around base and push them together when you need a larger surface. If you make the saw horses, you could take the tops off the roll around bases for portability.

I think you could have a very functional work bench doing these things.I think butt joints would work fine. Kreg used pocket screws.Ron. JGA,Regarding the size, if it is going to be in the shop 90% of the time, I would say go the full 4x8 size.

The size of the table you mention using as your base seems as though it may be a bit small for stability unless you are going to somehow mechanically fasten the tops and base (I still think you would be cantilevered quite a bit to make it a sturdy bench though). Also, the first bench I made I did without using any rabbets or dados. The butt joints are fine as long as you glue them it just takes a bit longer ensuring spacing and allignment, and can be a little messy. I don't see any reason to use dominos on this bench.

Flatness should never be a concern with this design. You just need to ensure a good sturdy base. Just my $.02.Nate. Ron/Nate/Kreg, I'm in the process of building both benches, but I have a few questions for you.What would you change if you were using this setup 90% of the time in the shop? I'm thinking of making the top 3'x6.5' and use a 2'x5' table on caster as the base (instead of the saw horses).Is the top flat enough for your needs?Do you see issues with using butt joints with dominoes instead of the rabbets? I can see the all around rabbets being stronger.Regards,JGA.I used butt points and dominos - has been sturdy; no issues. What is your main use for the table 95% of the time?

What will the other 5% be?The 5%. Is what you need to make it sized for.My 3 x 7. Size is perfect. I made to fit my van better I do not hAve a house on wheels like Ron has!!!I love the size I make built ins. My last one had uppers cases that were 30' wide by 83. Tall they fit fine and was able to assemble on the work topCasters are fine just buy heavy duty ones with all locking castersBut make base wider so no tip factorWhen you take it to job then you need saw horses and shelf.Any way you will love.

Kreg screws worked great. Ron, I have almost finished my ultimate miter stand and I thought I would share some pictures. I made a few modifications and tried to use up some of my partial sheets of plywood that are always cluttering up the shop from past projects.

I used piano hinges for the folding saw horses and added a t-track/bolt so I could tighten the dovetails down. I also put edge pieces on my extensions and I'm working on making that a place to stash guide rails. All that's left is to drill a few more holes in the extensions. Thanks for sharing your design/plan.Eric.